4 trout, each weighing about 300g (11oz)
40g (1½oz) butter
60g (2oz) rindless streaky bacon, chopped
175g (6oz) fresh ceps, trimmed and cut into 4mm (¼in) thick slices
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tbsp roughly chopped parsley
25g (1oz) plain flour
2 tbsp sunflower oil
for the beurre noisette
75g (3oz) unsalted butter
2 tsp fresh lemon juice
1 heaped tbsp freshly chopped parsley
Step One
Remove the bones from the fish. To do this, remove the head of each one, and then, working with one fish at a time, start to cut the top fillet away from the bones until you can get the whole blade underneath the fillet. Then rest a hand on top of the fish and cut the rest of the fillet away from the bones until you are about 2.5cm (1in) away from the tail. Turn the fish over and repeat on the other side. Then pull back the top fillet and snip out the backbone, close to the tail, with scissors. The fillets will still be attached at the tail. Repeat with the remaining fish.
Step Two
Melt the butter in a frying pan and as soon as it is foaming, add the bacon and fry briefly until lightly coloured. Add the ceps and garlic and toss over a medium-high heat for 1 minute until lightly cooked. Season and remove from the heat.
Step Three
Lay the fish on a chopping board and pull back the top fillet of each one. Season the cut face of the fillets and then cover the bottom fillet with some ceps and bacon mixture. Sprinkle with a little parsley, cover with the top fillet and tie round the whole fish in two places with fine string to hold everything in place.
Step Four
Season the outside of each fish with a little more salt and pepper, then dredge with the flour and pat off the excess. Heat the oil in one large pan over a moderate heat. Add the fish and fry for 2½ minutes without moving them, until nicely golden. Carefully turn the fish over and cook for another 2½ minutes, until cooked through. Lift the fish onto warmed plates.
Step Five
Discard the frying oil and wipe the pan clean. Add the butter for the beurre noisette and allowit to melt over a moderate heat. As soon as the butter starts to smell nutty and turns light brown, add the lemon juice, parsley and some seasoning. Pour some of the butter over each fish and serve.